Originally, I had planned to visit Denmark with my wife back in 2020 but then Covid-19 came along and scuppered those plans. Earlier this year whilst bingeing on yet another quality Danish Nordic noir crime series, I thought lets give it another go.
I organised a mixed trip taking in the capital city of Copenhagen and include a trip across the Øresund Bridge to Malmo in Sweden; the bridge in question featured prominently in the crime series The Bridge (Bron/Broen), which we’d both enjoyed a couple of years earlier. Following the brief city break, we would head to Cold Hawaii, the name given to a short stretch of coastline in North Jutland, in the north of Denmark, reportedly home to no less than 31 surf spots.
With a small swell window, I didn’t really anticipate much in the way of surf, although I knew on its day the waves can be excellent, which was evident by the numerous clips posted online, some of which showed footage of excellent barreling shore breaks. I suspected that perhaps these days didn’t come along too often. My mindset when we set off was that any wave I get will be a bonus, even if I just end up renting a longboard one day to catch some 6” dribblers. To avoid any pre-travel disappointments, I refrained from checking any surf forecasts; I’d just deal with what mother nature chooses to deliver whilst I was there.
It was a five-hour drive north from Copenhagen to the small coastal town of Nørre Vorupør where I had arranged to rent a small, secluded timber cottage, hidden among the dunes. On arrival in the town, it was instantly apparent that I needn’t worry whether I was going to get any swell, the wind was absolutely howling across the dunes from the direction of the sea.
The first surf check confirmed it was blowing fiercely onshore with waves breaking way out to sea on differing sandbanks. In the distance, just beyond the far end of the beach, I spotted some surfers tucked away behind a rocky groyne structure. I set off on foot for a closer inspection, eyes squinted, whilst my face was blasted by the fine white sand that streaked up the beach. Despite the onshore wind and rather grim looking sea, the waves looked fun beyond the groyne, so I went and suited up.
In the weeks building up to travel, I had been tracking the sea temperature, which had been rising steadily from the 3.3c shown just 6 weeks before we set off to an apparent 8c at the time of travel. I came armed with a 6mm hooded suit, 7mm booties, and both 3mm and 7mm mittens. I’d also brought a PE (polyethylene) core bodyboard with me, a cheaper, much more flexible board then I would usually ride at home, in the hope this would give me more flex in the colder conditions.
A thickly rubber clad local in the car park advised the water was freezing and I should definitely wear the 7mm mitts. When I hit the water though, it was surprisingly mild. To be honest, it didn’t feel much different to the 11c it was at home at the time; there were no ice-cream heads paddling out, and the heavy winter gear was unwarranted.
The waves were fun, albeit quite challenging from a paddling against the longshore rip point of view that kept trying to pull me away from the groyne where the best sets were breaking. Many surfers don’t enjoy surfing onshores, but I don’t mind; sometimes you get good dumping sections for manouevres, and this spot offered plenty of these.
Conditions were similar the following day, though the wind just started to ease during the evening, cleaning up the wave faces considerably. There were about half a dozen locals out and a good vibe in the water as we shared fun 3-4ft mostly left-handers.
After scoring bigger than I’d hoped for surf the first couple of days, I probably shouldn’t have been too disappointed to find the swell had dropped right off the next day. We took a short drive up to the next town, Klitmøller, the centre of Cold Hawaii. I was surprised to find this small town was home to a bustling surf industry. It was clear the region had been marketed well. There were a few 1ft waves breaking out on a well-shaped sandbank, so I rented an 8’4” surfboard from the friendly Surf Pro Cold Hawaii surf shop located at the main beach car park and headed out for a few fun ones.
On our last full day before driving back down to the city, I was nearly caught out. The wind was very strong offshore and the surf at Nørre Vorupør was looking on the tiny side; in fact, not much bigger than flat, although there were small swell lines showing. We took in the fresh sea air with a breezy stroll out and back along the main pier before joining the end of the long queue at the beach-side ice-cream shop, where we indulged in delicious mid-morning chocolate sprinkles coated ice-cream.
Keen for a wave, I suggested we chance heading back up to Klitmøller and, if big enough, I’d hire a longboard again, perhaps even a ten-footer if this is what it would take if it appeared catchable. Pulling into the car park I was taken aback to find it pumping. I watched a set of 3ft A-frame peaks rear up and peel flawlessly both directions in the strong, but perfect offshore breeze; I couldn’t get changed quick enough.
It was very busy, with upward of 50 people out in the line-up; however, without wanting to sound too harsh, many of those out there were inexperienced, effectively just bobbing about, enjoying being out in the surf without catching many waves, which made it easy to get my fair share of good set waves. I was impressed with how good the surf was, though when I checked the swell forecast afterwards, I saw there had been a 15 second period swell running, so it all made sense.
I thoroughly enjoyed my brief visit to Cold Hawaii. For me personally, surf trips are more than just the quality of the surf. I love visiting new places and experiencing different cultures. Denmark is a beautiful, clean, and friendly country, which provided me a variety of fun waves. I was stoked to share waves with so many smiling faces enjoying what is a thriving local surf scene. A return trip beckons.
Words and pictures by Colin Crowther unless stated.
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